It’s a gloriously sunny morning in Buxton, Derbyshire, yet as I approach St Ann’s Well to refill my water bottle, there’s no one around.
I’ve been a regular visitor to the town since I was a child, particularly in summer, when wells across the Peak District are decorated with petals – a custom that dates back to pagan times.
The Romans were attracted by Buxton’s natural thermal springs – like the ones at Bath in Somerset – and they’re not the only ones.
The region surrounding Bath is home to 193,400 people, but in 2023, it received 5.4 million visitors, resulting in congested roads, unofficial parking, and air pollution from coaches. And so in July, councillors lobbied the government to introduce a visitor tax in an effort to combat overtourism.
Buxton, on the other hand, shares many of Bath’s attractions, yet its population is 20,048, and just 1.5 million people visited last year. Its elegant, Georgian architecture and healing natural springs make it a perfect alternative for a weekend getaway, especially for those who want to avoid the crowds.
A Roman holiday
When the Romans discovered a hot spring at St Ann’s Well around 50BC, they founded Buxton, naming it Aquae Arnemetiae after the goddess Arnemetia.
Matthew Howarth, a programme manager at the Buxton Crescent Heritage Trust, says: “Both Bath and Buxton have origins as Roman spa towns built around natural thermal springs. Each featured baths and temples associated with water deities. These towns were seen as destinations for wellness and recovery, and Roman remains in both confirm the importance of the curative properties of the waters.”
Read more: The 10 best UK city breaks for a weekend trip in 2025
In Buxton, these include the roads leading into the town, pottery displayed at the library, and the subterranean ruins of a bathhouse.
In the late 18th century, Buxton Crescent, an arc of hotels and homes, was constructed over the Roman remains, inspired by the similar crescent in Bath. Natural mineral baths and the grade II-listed pump room were also built on the site in the 19th century, with the latter now a visitor centre.
Today, St Ann’s Well feeds into the Buxton Crescent spa hotel, while visitors can find out more about the history of the site at the Buxton Crescent Experience.
‘Pride and Prejudice’ in the Peaks
The similarities between the spa towns do not end there, either. Jane Austen, whose relationship with Bath was notoriously complicated, loved the Peak District.
In Pride and Prejudice, the character Caroline Bingley says, “there is not a finer county in England than Derbyshire”, while the novel’s protagonist, Elizabeth Bennet, visits Chatsworth House, a 30-minute drive east from Buxton.
It featured as her love interest’s home in the 2005 film adaptation of the novel, which starred Keira Knightley. Meanwhile, Lyme Park, a 30-minute drive north, stood in for Mr Darcy’s estate in the 1995 BBC series – it’s there that actor Colin Firth emerged from the lake in one well-known scene.
To celebrate the 250th anniversary of Austen’s birth, fans can attend the Buxton Georgian Festival (which takes place from 23 to 28 September this year). The programme includes a Georgian market, a talk by historian Mark Dawson, and an evening with Horrible Histories author Terry Deary.
.jpg)
Other highlights include tours centred on the diarist Anne Lister, led by costumed interpreters, plus calligraphy workshops, a ceilidh and a Regency ball.
“The ball has the live music of the period,” says organiser Matt. “Moves are called, so people know how to dance to the music. Costume is preferred – you can hire period dress from speciality shops such as Farthingale.”
A cultural hotspot
A visit to Buxton doesn’t need to be limited to the autumn, though. The world-renowned opera house is at the heart of the town’s thriving arts scene, which flourishes throughout the year.
Read more: This new walking trail is the best way to see the Lake District without a car
Each summer, opera singers, artists and writers flock to Buxton International Festival (BIF) and Buxton Fringe Festival for a series of extraordinary cultural events. Performances of Verdi’s La Traviata, Caccini’s La Liberazione di Ruggiero and Viardot’s The Last Sorcerer are already confirmed for next year’s BIF.
Elsewhere, the Pavilion Arts Centre is home to a 360-seat cinema. Octagon Hall hosts regular tea dances, exhibitions and fairs, and there’s always something going on at The Gallery in the Gardens – I’ve had many serendipitous encounters with local artists there.
When it’s time to eat, stock up on Buxton pudding at the Pump Room or Derbyshire oatcakes at Buxton market (which, at 1,032ft above sea level, is the highest marketplace in England).
For something more refined, try the 1789 restaurant at the Buxton Crescent Hotel – I’ll never forget its dark chocolate and hazelnut torte – or Old Hall, England’s oldest hotel, where Mary, Queen of Scots, once stayed.
With its buzzing cultural scene, restorative Roman baths and impressive Georgian connections, it’s remarkable that Buxton feels so intimate. Perhaps it’s time, then, to pull the plug on Bath and swap it for this charming, crowd-free town instead.
Where to stay
Double rooms at the Buxton Crescent Hotel cost from £185 per night, including breakfast and use of its mineral-rich pools.
Alternatively, double rooms at the more affordable Old Hall Hotel start at £99 per night with breakfast.
How to do it
Direct Northern trains from Manchester Piccadilly to Buxton take an hour.
Direct Avanti West Coast trains from London Euston to Macclesfield take two hours; from there it’s a 25-minute drive to Buxton. Local firm Top Cars offers reasonable rates.
Sarah travelled as a guest of Avanti West Coast and the Buxton Crescent Hotel.
#Forget #Bath #historic #English #town #charming #crowdfree #alternative
